Imagine an uplifted desert plain stretching from horizon to horizon split by the great wound of a canyon that twists and turns for over 160 km, reaching, at times, up to 27kms wide. We were standing on the edge and looking into the stygian depths of Namibia’s Fish River Canyon. Said to be second to America´s Grand Canyon it has none of the former´s celebrity status. This is part of its magic. To this day it remains unspoilt and uncrowded.

The best viewing point, just 20 km north of Hobas, is at the northern end. Poised, literally, on the canyon’s outer rim, we were looking at exposed rock walls - reaching 550 metres in places and dating back 2.6 billion years and across a succession of cliff-faces and table-top surfaces that marked the river´s tortuous route to the distant horizon. Immediately before us, a headland - dramatically named Hell´s Corner - has been carved. In the very bottom pools of water glinted, hinting at the rush and hurl of summer torrents that have twice washed away the hot spa resort of Ai Ais at the far southern end.

Legend imbues the canyon with romantic beginnings. The early San believed Koutein Kooru, a frenetic snake scrambling to escape hunters, gouged the canyon. In fact, like the Grand Canyon, it is a canyon within a canyon. Around 500 million years ago a period of tectonic earth movement caused layers of ancient rock to rift apart and tilt at an angle of 45 degrees creating the outer canyon. The inner canyon, first carved by glacial action, became a natural watercourse where powerful currents forged a meandering gorge deep within the outer walls. Thus the Fish River began, increased in momentum and continues to flow - intermittently during the dry winter season but with impressive erosive force when heavy summer rain on surrounding mountains feeds its tributaries.

One of the main attractions of the canyon is the five-day hiking trail to Ai Ais. This can only be achieved in winter – high temperatures and dangers of flooding make it impossible to attempt in summer. Now, in early summer we could see wide sandy stretches on either side of the river – in places the water level was so low that, at times, it appeared no more than a succession of limpid pools. Although daytime temperatures were reaching over 40 degrees, accustomed to summers in Dubai, we were determined to brave the heat and spend at least one night in the canyon. Armed with sunhats, quantities of water as well as supplies of food & sleeping bags all crammed into our backpacks we set off.

Knees and thighs locked we began our descent over lose scree triggering small avalanches that propelled us down a polished trail between boulders at unexpected speeds – sideways on and leaning towards the rock wall we discovered was the safest method. The slope was west-facing but the sun was already losing height and throwing great slabs of shadow across the canyon floor.

At a guestimated halfway point we made for the shade of an overhanging rock disturbing a klipspringer also hiding from the sun. As camera shy as the flock of ostriches we’d surprised earlier he took flight on delicately pointed hooves. Below, the serpentine remains of the river glinted tantalizingly while over our heads a vulture drew lazy circles across an ocean of sky. Held between towering rock pinnacles it wasn’t difficult to imagine the long ago tilting of the earth’s crust wrenching these ancient walls apart.
It was a relief to finally arrive at the bottom, to find level sand underfoot and, the ultimate luxury, cool green river pools. Now, in complete shadow, we continued following the river on its intermittent meandering course until finally, rounding a wide u-shaped bend, we saw the distant outline of a clump of heavy-headed date-palms. Hopeful, that this was the legendary Palm Springs we were making for we quickened our flagging pace.

The early San´s knowledge of the springs and their restorative powers goes back thousands of years. In more recent history it is claimed that the waters cured two escaped German prisoners of war both of whom suffered from life threatening diseases while hiding in the canyon for a period of two years. When they emerged they were found to be suffering from no more than vitamin deficiencies. Legend has it that the date palms, near the sulphur pools, grew from stones discarded by the two men.

An area of soft sand alongside one of the pools provided an idyllic camping spot. Refreshed and revived from lazing in the warm waters we suddenly became aware of a drop in temperature. Driftwood, conveniently leftover from last summer’s floods, was easy to collect and before long we had a fire burning and our senses were responding to the smells and sounds of barbequing ‘boerworse’. Once, a speciality of South African farmers, it was Richard’s favourite camping food. As darkness drained into the canyon absorbing the last of the sun’s vermilion light, and flames from the fire threw shadows on the rock walls, we filled our tumblers with red wine. Though well over the recommended room temperature - it tasted like the nectar of the Gods!

Cocooned in our sleeping bags beside the fire we watched the pale river of sky collect its stars. Then as a half-moon slipped over the lip of the canyon huge figures grew from the rock walls towering over us like the carved effigies of a mighty civilization. In the all-prevailing silence, occasionally broken by wind-stirred flames or the shifting of charred wood, the haunting cry of a bird filled the night sky. We agreed that this was one part of our journey we would never forget.

Travel Details
Avoid the summer rainy season from December – March.
Flights & travel arrangements for independent travellers or guided tours contact:
Judy Fell at AFRICA CONNECTION
Tel: 00- 971-4-3390232